By james art This season, textile designer and founder of Raw Mango, Sanjay Garg, is all about the intimate wedding with couples redefining their own culture, folk traditions that connect with Rajasthani culture along with personal expression, and symbols of scale and form like garland in all his glory. We talk to Garg about his take on intimate weddings in the age of opulence, as well as the cultural significance of a profound symbol like the garland.
Grazia: How does the garland concept find its way into your latest collection?
Sanjay Garg: The garland is a continuation of all our conversations, each questioning place and perspective. This time the collection dives into the culture of garlands – they are an architecture of Indian culture and an essential part of our daily life.
What flowers grow is not necessarily under our control, but what we do with them is – from proportion, to sculpture, placed on deities, made in certain types of weather or with a certain scent. The collection acknowledges this uniquely Indian aesthetic of garlands, exploring these symbols through scale and form inspired by their ubiquity; from jhol from floral toran, knot and braid construction malasand those depicted on Mauryan statues.
G: Homes are often the place for your mood. What are your fondest memories of your home?
SG: My home is also India and this time the collection talks about that.
G: Intimate weddings in the era of opulence.
SG: It’s nice to break away from the stereotype and revisit something that is just as much our own. Weddings will still be festive and joyful, but of course there may be a change in behavior and more thoughtful choices made. I think it’s possible to have a ceremony that’s rich and beautiful without all the fuss or ostentation. It should reflect the voice of the bride and groom.
G: And the bride wore…?
SG: The bride is dressed in a jungle green silk mala lehenga in Varanasi silk brocade with zardozis embroidery that echoes the jhol on mogra gayras like “satlada haar‘ or a 7-pronged necklace worn at royal weddings. She wears it with our Suryakanthi blouse zardozis embroidery that reinterprets the garlanded statues of the Mauryan Empire. Fleece odhani draped over her shoulders and reflects her bridal look preferences.
G: Colors and motifs that inspired you this season?
SG: The collection features festive colors including gulkand wounds – inspired by desi pigeonlotus petal pink, the ideal mogra white and raw green mango leaves. Motifs draw from colorful markets, jhol of floral toran, floral tassels (kunyam), the drapery of garlands and jewels in Mauryan statues and mogra gayras explored through scale and form.