Carolina Curious: Why are there so many Greek restaurants in Winston-Salem? – WFDD

In Winston-Salem, Greek restaurants are almost as ubiquitous as fast food. But many of them do not only sell Mediterranean dishes – Philly Cheesteaks and burgers can also be found on their menus. The listener Mali Kalajan wrote: “I am curious how this restaurant style has become a staple of Winston-Salem and the history of Greek families in Winston-Salem.” April Lacel of WFDD found the answer for this Carolina edition curious.

The lunch tide hit the Grecian Corner in the center of Winston-Salem, and owner Angelo Balus is watching a grill. The smell of the mouth of lemon juice, olive oil and oregano fills the air as the curved chicken diverts. This is a familiar Balus aroma that has spent most of his life in Greek cuisines. This is the case with many other dining room owners in Winston-Salem, he says.

“We are related to so many other restaurant owners, so if I have to borrow something I am from, I will call a cousin or relative,” he says. “We always bounce ideas from each other. It’s almost like a therapeutic session when we get together because we tell our military stories. “

It is the epitome of the family industry, says Balus. He took over the Greek corner by his uncle, who has ruled it since 1970, making him one of the oldest ever -operating Greek restaurants in Winston. But this is far from the first.

The story of the stage of the Greek restaurant in Winston-Salem actually began more than 100 years ago, with a young immigrant named Alex Kiriakides. This is, according to Mike Wakeford, with Muse Winston-Salem.

“He was waiting for tables in Roanok, Virginia, about 1906, when a local business man from Winston-Salem got to know this young Greek waiter and encouraged him to come to Winston-Salem with the promise that he would help him set up in business, says Wakeford.

He says the client has kept his word, helping Kiriakides open a Princess cafe at the old Phoenix Hotel in 1906. Word returned to his village in Greece and motivates others to take a jump and move to Winston.

“It makes sense that if you come to Winston-Salem, there will be a job in the restaurants that have established the Greeks,” he says. “But also that there will be a community big enough to have a church and obviously there will be a community where the language barrier is not a problem.”

A large wave of Greek immigration took place after World War II, during the Civil War. Until the 1970s, 145 families called Winston-Salem Dom. One of them was the Balus.

“My father in 1951, when he came, he worked 12 hours a day seven days a week for $ 12,” says Gus Balus, Angelo’s father.

He has a certain stand at the Grecian Corner – a covenant place in front, where a scene from the movie “Mr. Fate ”was filmed. After decades at the Winston-Salem restaurant industry, he won the right to call Dibs.

He first came to the city at the age of 10 after his father found a job in Greek cuisine.

“On the day, that’s all they knew how to do, the ones who came from there. I mean, there is no language. You couldn’t go to another job there, “he says. “So they had to work for another Greek.”

Gass followed in his footsteps, working at Sam’s Gourmet, a former landmark of Winston-Salem, known for his massive salad bar. The Balus calls the owner, Sam Papas, the coach K of the Greek chefs in Winston – many in the community have been trained by him, including GUS. He opened his first restaurant, Cloverdale Kitchen, in 1968.

When he was in charge, he did what had been done from the generations before him – he hired other Greeks.

“I had about six Greek boys who worked for me. Well, they learned the business, “he says. “And the six today are in the restaurant business.”

Gass brought his brother, cousins ​​and laws. They tried to recreate their family dishes, a cornerstone of Greek culture. His son tells him that that is why their menus have so much variety.

“I think the biggest reason is that you want to be able to bring your whole family. The whole family may not want to eat Greek food tonight. Maybe someone wants pasta, maybe someone wants a hot dog, “Angelo says. “So it was a way to get the whole family here to eat together, but not necessarily eating the same thing.”

The menu at the Grecian Corner remained almost the same as it was when Angelo’s uncle opened it. He says the restaurant has become a family tradition for others in the community.

“Every day, people will come in and bring their grandchildren and say,” I got here when I was in high school, and then I would bring my children here, “he says. “” Now I carry my grandchildren here. “

Some of these customers recognize Gus when they see it in their cabin at the restaurant. He comes every morning to read the paper and drink coffee with his sons. He retired from the industry several years ago.

“I’m just very proud of everything I did and what I did,” he says. “I just look to be happy and enjoy my family and my grandchildren. It was just an amazing trip to me. “

Each year, the community gathers to celebrate its history and culture of the Greek Festival-this year is scheduled for May 16-18.